Color fastness to rubbing is one of the most critical quality indicators for hardshell jackets, because the outer shell is constantly abraded by backpack straps, harnesses, and body movement during outdoor use. This article explains the rubbing fastness test principles, applicable standards such as ISO 105-X12, AATCC 8 and GB/T 3920, sample requirements, typical grade thresholds, and practical answers to frequently asked questions.
Technical Overview
A hardshell jacket, also known as a shell jacket or storm jacket, is a waterproof and windproof outdoor garment engineered with laminated membranes, coatings, and sealed seams. Because the garment is repeatedly exposed to friction against backpack shoulder straps, hip belts, climbing harnesses, and abrasion from ropes or rock surfaces, the dyed shell fabric must retain its color without transferring dye to adjacent materials.
Color fastness to rubbing, also called crocking fastness, measures the resistance of a fabric's dye or coating to transfer onto an undyed rubbing cloth under dry and wet conditions. Poor rubbing fastness causes color staining on light-colored base layers, backpacks, and other gear, and may indicate weak dye fixation that compromises long-term appearance.
The test is typically performed according to the following internationally recognized standards:
- ISO 105-X12 — Textiles: Tests for colour fastness, colour fastness to rubbing (crockmeter method)
- GB/T 3920 — Chinese national standard for color fastness to rubbing, technically aligned with ISO 105-X12
- AATCC 8 — Colorfastness to crocking using a crockmeter, widely used in North American markets
- JIS L 0849 — Japanese method for color fastness to rubbing, using a Gakushin-type tester
- ISO 105-X16 — Small specimen rubbing test, suitable for prints, logos, and narrow trims
For finished garment evaluation, the product standard GB/T 32614 (outdoor sportswear — hardshell garments) incorporates rubbing fastness as a mandatory color fastness requirement, alongside fastness to washing, light, perspiration, and water.
Testing Samples
Outer Shell Fabric
The primary test object is the laminated or coated outer shell, typically a polyester or nylon fabric bonded to a waterproof membrane such as PTFE or polyurethane. Samples should be cut from representative fabric panels or garment components, free from creases, wrinkles, and visible defects. A specimen of at least 50 mm x 200 mm is generally sufficient, with the long direction aligned with the warp or lengthwise direction of the fabric. When warp and weft results are expected to differ significantly, both directions should be tested.
Lining and Backer Fabrics
The inner lining or brushed backer layer of the hardshell jacket is also tested, since it is in direct contact with base layers and mid-layers. Colored linings with poor wet crocking fastness can stain light-colored underwear or thermal garments during perspiration and rain exposure.
Prints, Coatings, and Trims
Screen-printed logos, rubberized graphics, reflective trims, contrast color panels, and zipper tape may all require rubbing fastness verification. For small or irregularly shaped components, ISO 105-X16 with a smaller rubbing finger is recommended to ensure accurate contact. Coated surfaces should be tested in their final cured and washed state, because incomplete curing or residual surface treatment can drastically lower the measured grade.
Conditioning Requirements
Prior to testing, samples and rubbing cloths must be conditioned in a controlled atmosphere, commonly 20 ± 2 °C and 65 ± 4 % relative humidity for ISO methods, or 21 ± 1 °C and 65 ± 2 % relative humidity for AATCC methods, until moisture equilibrium is reached. Proper conditioning ensures reproducible wet pick-up and consistent results.
Testing Items
The core testing items for a hardshell jacket rubbing fastness evaluation include:
- Color fastness to dry rubbing — evaluates dye transfer when the fabric surface is rubbed under ambient dry conditions
- Color fastness to wet rubbing — evaluates dye transfer when the rubbing cloth is wetted, simulating rain, sweat, and moisture exposure
- Optional supplementary items — fastness to wet rubbing after domestic washing cycles, and assessment of coating integrity after rubbing for coated or printed areas
Results are expressed as staining grades on the grey scale for staining, ranging from grade 1 (severe staining) to grade 5 (no visible staining), with intermediate half-step ratings such as 3-4.
Testing Methods
Apparatus and Test Principle
The test is conducted on a crockmeter, which consists of a cylindrical rubbing finger of 16 mm diameter mounted on a pivoted arm. The finger travels a straight tracking stroke of 104 ± 3 mm across the specimen under a fixed downward force of 9 N. A piece of standard undyed cotton rubbing cloth, typically 50 mm x 50 mm, is wrapped around the finger to pick up any dye transferred from the specimen.
Dry Rubbing Procedure
The conditioned specimen is clamped flat on the test base, and a dry standard cotton cloth is fixed to the rubbing finger. The finger is then reciprocated for 10 complete rubbing cycles within approximately 10 seconds. After rubbing, the cotton cloth is removed and any loose fibers or debris are carefully taken off before assessment.
Wet Rubbing Procedure
A fresh cotton rubbing cloth is soaked in distilled or deionized water and squeezed to a defined moisture content — commonly 100 % pick-up for ISO methods and 65 ± 5 % pick-up for AATCC 8. The wet cloth is mounted on the finger, and the same 10-cycle rubbing stroke is applied. After the test, the wet cloth is dried in air at room temperature or at a temperature not exceeding 60 °C before evaluation, because staining intensity changes as the cloth dries.
Assessment of Results
The degree of staining on the cotton cloth is rated against the grey scale for staining in a standard lighting environment, such as a color assessment cabinet with a D65 light source, by trained personnel. Key assessment points include:
- ISO 105-X12 / GB/T 3920 results are rated using the grey scale for staining defined in ISO 105-A03 / GB/T 251
- AATCC 8 results are rated according to the corresponding AATCC chromatic transference scale or grey scale for staining
- For very light-colored shell fabrics, staining may be assessed by comparison with an unrubbed white reference cloth to improve discrimination
- Spectrophotometric measurement of color difference is increasingly used to supplement visual grading and reduce operator subjectivity
Typical Acceptance Criteria
While exact limits depend on the applicable product standard, purchase contract, or destination market, common requirements for hardshell jackets and outdoor sportswear are:
- Dry rubbing fastness: grade 4 or above for the shell fabric and lining
- Wet rubbing fastness: grade 3 or above, with some specifications permitting grade 2-3 for very dark shades
- Printed and coated areas: generally required to meet the same thresholds, verified by the small-specimen method where necessary
Applications
Rubbing fastness testing for hardshell jackets is applied throughout the textile and apparel supply chain:
- Incoming quality control of dyed and laminated shell fabrics before cutting and sewing
- Finished garment compliance verification against product standards such as GB/T 32614 for retail, e-commerce, and tender submissions
- Export certification support, where buyers in different regions specify ISO, AATCC, EN, or JIS methods
- Research and development of dyeing recipes, fixing agents, coating formulations, and printing processes
- Root-cause analysis of customer complaints involving color transfer onto base layers, backpacks, or car seats
- Benchmark and comparison testing of competitive products during brand development
Accredited third-party laboratories routinely perform these tests and issue reports that are accepted by brand buyers, marketplaces, and regulatory authorities worldwide.
FAQ
Why is wet rubbing fastness usually lower than dry rubbing fastness?
Water swells the fiber structure and partially solubilizes unfixed dye particles, especially reactive and direct dyes on cellulosic linings. As a result, dye migrates more easily into the wet cotton rubbing cloth, producing a lower staining grade under wet conditions.
How can a manufacturer improve the rubbing fastness of a hardshell jacket?
- Select dyes with high fixation rates and complete the recommended fixation process
- Thoroughly wash off unfixed dye, hydrolysate, and surface auxiliaries after dyeing
- Apply appropriate fixing agents, avoiding excessive dosage that may cause shade change or handle issues
- Optimize coating and lamination curing so that pigment or coating is fully immobilized on the shell surface
- Verify fastness after repeated laundering, because fastness can deteriorate over the garment life cycle
What are the main differences between ISO 105-X12 and AATCC 8?
Both methods use a crockmeter with a 16 mm finger and 9 N force, but the wet cloth pick-up differs: ISO specifies approximately 100 % moisture uptake, whereas AATCC specifies 65 ± 5 %. Conditioning atmospheres and assessment scales also differ slightly, so results between the two methods are not always directly interchangeable.
How much sample is needed for a test report?
A practical sample is usually one garment or fabric panels of roughly 20 cm x 20 cm per color and per fabric type, which is sufficient for replicate dry and wet tests in both lengthwise and widthwise directions, plus retained backup specimens.
Do dark-colored hardshell fabrics need to meet the same wet rubbing grade?
Dark shades are intrinsically more prone to visible staining because a very small amount of transferred dye produces a noticeable stain. Many procurement specifications therefore allow a relaxed wet rubbing requirement, commonly grade 2-3, for deep shades while maintaining grade 4 for dry rubbing.
Can the rubbing test damage the waterproof coating or membrane?
The standard 10-cycle rubbing stroke is gentle and primarily designed to assess dye transfer, not abrasion durability. However, poorly cured coatings may show surface marking, which is itself a useful indicator of process deficiencies and should be documented in the test report.